Are you wondering if you should sand your deck before staining? The short answer is: it depends! If your deck has raised wood fibers, damage, or an old, failing stain, then sanding is likely necessary. However, if your deck is in good condition, you may be able to skip the sanding and go straight to cleaning and staining. To make sure you get it right, I recommend reading the rest of this article, where I’ll dive into the details of deck preparation, sanding techniques, choosing the right stain, and more. I’m here to help you get your deck looking its best!
When is Sanding Really Necessary?
First, let’s discuss when you absolutely need to sand your deck before deck staining. If your deck is a bit of a mess, you’ll probably need to sand it.
- Raised Wood Fibers: Imagine your deck is a fuzzy sweater. Sometimes, when you clean your deck with water, the little wood fibers pop up, making the surface rough. Sanding helps smooth these out and prevent splinters.
- Damage: If your deck has been through a lot, like getting scratched or gouged, sanding can help smooth out those areas. It’s like giving your deck a fresh start.
- Old, Failing Coatings: If your deck has an old stain or paint that’s peeling, you might need to sand it off, especially if you tried using a wood stripper and it didn’t work. If the old coating is failing, you must remove it before applying a new coat of stain.
- Rough Spots: If you have some areas that are just a little rough, a light sanding can make them smooth. You can also do a heavy sanding if you want your deck to be extra smooth.
- Tape Test: You can use tape to help you decide if your deck needs sanding. Just stick a piece of tape to your deck and then lift it off. If wood fibers come up on the tape, then you need to sand.
Deck Preparation: More Than Just Sanding
Now, before you even think about sanding, remember that there’s more to deck prep than just sanding. Cleaning, stripping, washing, and brightening are all essential parts of deck preparation. Think of it like baking a cake. You have to mix all the ingredients first before you put it in the oven.
- Cleaning is Key: Whether your deck is old or new, cleaning it before deck staining is a must. It’s like washing your face before putting on makeup.
- Cleaning gets rid of dirt, mold, and mildew, which can also make your stain not stick.
- You can use a special deck cleaner or a mold and mildew killer. Just make sure it’s not just bleach.
- Rinse everything off really well after cleaning. You don’t want to leave any soap behind.
- Stripping Old Stain: If your deck has an old stain that’s not looking great, use a wood stripper first. This helps to remove the old stain before you add a new one. Skipping this step means the new stain might not stick correctly and can peel off.
- Power Washing: A pressure washer can be your friend when cleaning the deck, but be careful.
- Use a low setting and a wide fan so you don’t damage the wood.
- A power washer can remove dirt, mold, and old coatings, but it might not remove all of the mold or mildew.
- Brightening: After washing, you might want to use a wood brightener. This helps to open up the wood so that the stain can soak in better.
- Drying Time: It’s super important to let your deck dry completely before sanding or deck staining.
Sanding Techniques: Doing it the Right Way
If you’ve decided that your deck needs sanding, let’s make sure you do it the right way. Don’t just grab any sander and go wild.
- Type of Sander:
- A random orbital sander is usually the best for deck sanding because it’s not too harsh.
- Belt sanders can be too strong and can damage softwoods, though some professionals use them effectively.
- You might need a smaller detail sander to get to edges and railings.
- Sanding Grit:
- For the first round of sanding, use a 60-80 grit sandpaper. This helps to remove the rough stuff and open up the pores of the wood.
- Don’t use sandpaper that’s too fine, or the stain won’t soak in well.
- Sanding Technique: Remember, the goal isn’t to make your deck as smooth as glass. You just want to get rid of the raised fibers so the stain can stick and penetrate into the wood.
- Sanding Direction: Always sand with the grain of the wood. Sanding against the grain can cause damage.
- Areas to Sand:
- Make sure you sand the surface, edges, and railings of the deck.
- Pay extra attention to the handrails so they are nice and smooth and splinter free.
- Sanding the edges of the boards will make sure that the stain will be absorbed evenly.
- Post-Sanding Cleanup: After sanding, clean up all of the dust before you apply the stain. You can use a broom, leaf blower or a shop vac.
Choosing the Right Stain for Your Deck Staining Project
Now that your deck is prepped, it’s time to choose the right deck stain. There are different types to consider.
- Types of Stains:
- Transparent and semi-transparent stains let you see the wood grain. These usually require one coat.
- Solid color stains will give you a more uniform look. These often need two coats.
- Oil-Based vs. Water-Based: Oil-based stains usually last longer and condition wood better than water-based stains.
- Number of Coats: Remember, transparent and semi-transparent stains usually need just one coat, while solid color stains often require two.
Applying the Stain
Okay, so your deck is prepped and you have your stain. Now it’s time for deck staining.
- Methods:
- Using a brush can give you the best results for deck staining.
- You can also use an airless sprayer, but be sure to back-brush the stain. This makes sure that it gets into all the little cracks and crevices.
- Rollers can be used for solid color stains.
- Board by Board Method: If you’re using a transparent or semi-transparent stain, it’s important to stain one board at a time. This can help to prevent lap marks.
- Test Area: Always test your stain in a small area first, or on a spare piece of wood if you have it. That way you can make sure that it looks like you want it to.
- Timing: Don’t stain your deck in direct sunlight because it can dry too fast.
- Drying Time: Make sure to let the stain dry completely before using your deck again.
What if I Don’t Want to Sand?
Sometimes, sanding just isn’t needed. Here are some ways to prep your deck without sanding.
- Chemical Strippers: You can use a chemical stripper to get rid of old coatings.
- Deck Cleaners: Sometimes, a good deck cleaner and brightener are all you need if your deck isn’t too damaged.
Things to Watch Out for When Sanding
Sanding isn’t always the best option. Here are some potential problems to keep in mind:
- Thinning Deck Boards: If you sand too much, your deck boards can become too thin and weak.
- Damage to Fasteners: Sanding can damage the nails and screws in your deck. It can also create tiny holes that hold water and cause rot and rust.
- Preventing Stain Absorption: If you sand your deck too smoothly, the stain might not soak in as well, and you could have peeling problems down the road.
Keeping Your Deck Looking Great: Maintenance
Once your deck is stained, you’ll want to keep it looking great. Here’s how:
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your deck regularly to keep it free of dirt and grime, and to prevent mold or mildew.
- Re-staining: Plan on re-staining your deck every 2-4 years to keep it protected from the elements.
- Inspection: Check your deck often for signs of wear and tear, loose boards, or damage.
How Much Will it Cost?
- Sanding a large deck, if you hire professionals, can be quite expensive and time-consuming.
Safety First
- Always wear a dust mask and safety glasses when sanding. You want to keep dust out of your lungs and eyes.
- Knee pads and hearing protection are also great for protecting yourself and being more comfortable.
Your Deck Staining Journey
So, should you sand your deck before deck staining? It depends! Think about the condition of your deck, what it needs, and what kind of look you want. Take your time, do your research, and you’ll have a fantastic-looking deck in no time!
Maintaining Your Deck: Keeping it Beautiful for Years It’s important to remember that taking care of your deck is not a one-time job. You have to keep up with it. By cleaning your deck, re-staining when needed, and doing regular inspections, you will be sure to have a great looking deck for years to come!
Chester County Deck Staining – Water Boy Soft Wash
Is your deck ready for a refresh? At Water Boy Soft Wash, we know that proper deck preparation is key to a lasting stain job. Instead of immediately reaching for a sander, consider a professional pressure washing first. Our method gently removes dirt, mold, and mildew, addressing the root cause of many deck issues. We tackle mill glaze on new lumber and ensure your deck is ready for staining. We also know how to properly clean a previously stained deck, testing to see if it is time for a new coat.
We can help you determine if sanding is truly necessary. If sanding is needed, we’ll use the appropriate techniques and 60-80 grit sandpaper to open wood pores for optimal stain penetration. Whether you choose a transparent, semi-transparent, or solid color stain, we’ll ensure a smooth, even, and long-lasting finish. Avoid the pitfalls of DIY deck refinishing, including over-sanding and improper cleaning. Call Water Boy Soft Wash at (610) 812-7378 for a free consultation and let us revitalize your outdoor space with our expert deck cleaning and staining services.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I always need to sand my deck before staining or re-staining?
The answer is not a simple yes or no. It largely depends on the condition of your deck. If your deck is new or in good condition with no damage, you might not need to sand it. However, if there is existing damage like raised wood fibers, splinters, old stain, or a rough surface, sanding is often recommended. A key way to check is the water test: if water soaks into the wood rather than beading, it is likely a good time to re-stain, and the amount of sanding required will vary. You also need to consider the type of stain you will be applying since sanding too smooth may not allow the stain to penetrate well.
What is “mill glaze” and why is it important when preparing a new deck for staining?
Mill glaze is a smooth, almost slick layer on the surface of new pressure-treated lumber that results from the manufacturing process. This glaze can prevent the stain from properly bonding with the wood, leading to premature peeling and failure of the stain. In the past, it was common to let new decks weather for months to allow this mill glaze to break down naturally. However, today, professional cleaning and stripping products can remove mill glaze and allow you to stain a new deck much sooner. It’s important to remove this mill glaze before applying stain.
What type of sander and sandpaper grit should I use when sanding a deck?
For sanding decks, a random orbital sander is generally recommended over a belt sander, particularly for softer woods like cedar or pressure-treated pine, as belt sanders can easily gouge the wood if used incorrectly. The recommended grit for deck sanding is typically 60 to 80 grit sandpaper. Finer grits can close the pores of the wood and prevent stain from penetrating properly, potentially leading to stain failure. If you’re using a floor sander or drum sander, start with a coarser grit like 40 to remove the top layer, and follow with the 80-grit to smooth the surface. For hand sanding use a palm sander with 80-grit.
What are the main steps involved in preparing a deck for staining, and what order should they be done in?
The main steps for deck preparation are generally as follows:
- Clear the deck: Remove all furniture, plants, and other items
- Inspect: Look for loose boards, popped nails or screws, damage, and rot. Make necessary repairs like tightening loose boards, sinking nails, and replacing damaged boards. Pay special attention to splinters and ends of the boards.
- Clean: Sweep away debris. Apply a suitable deck cleaner or stripper and scrub the deck with a stiff brush (non-metal). Then, rinse thoroughly with water using a hose or pressure washer at a low setting to avoid damage. If you are using a stripper, you should pressure wash the deck with a pressure washer.
- Sand: After the deck has dried thoroughly from the cleaning, you can use a sander to address rough spots, remove old stain, and open wood pores.
- Final Clean: Sweep, blow, or vacuum away sanding dust to ensure proper stain adhesion.
- Test: Do a test patch with the stain you are planning to use.
Should I pressure wash my deck? What precautions should I take when doing so?
Pressure washing can be an effective way to clean a deck, especially if there’s old paint or a lot of dirt and grime. However, it needs to be done with care. Always use a low-pressure setting and a wide-fan nozzle to avoid damaging the wood. Using too much pressure, or a concentrated stream, can tear up the wood fibers. Ensure the wood is completely dry before applying stain and test on a small spot first. If you can avoid a pressure washer entirely by using a deck stripper, it is sometimes recommended.
What is the water test and how does it help in determining if a deck needs refinishing?
The water test involves pouring a small amount of water onto different areas of your deck and waiting for a few minutes. If the water soaks into the wood, it indicates that the wood is porous and ready to be stained or sealed. If the water beads up and is repelled by the surface, it suggests that the existing stain or sealant is still effective, and you might not need to refinish it right away. However, even if the water beads up, cleaning before staining will help with stain bonding.
What are the different types of deck stains available, and how do I choose the right one for my deck?
The best type of stain will depend on the look you’re going for. The main types are:
- Transparent or semi-transparent stains/sealers: These allow the natural wood grain to show through and are often recommended for pressure-treated lumber or when wanting to highlight the wood’s natural beauty. However, they can be less forgiving of lap marks.
- Solid color stains: These offer a more uniform appearance and can hide imperfections in the wood. They are good for decks that need a refreshed appearance and you do not want to highlight the natural look of the wood. They’re much more forgiving of mistakes and easier to apply than transparent or semi-transparent stains.
- Thick deck coatings: These are more like paint and can fill cracks and conceal surface damage. They often contain slip-resistant materials.
It’s also important to select an exterior finish designed for weather and sunlight. Many stains now combine stain and sealant in one product.
What are some of the reasons people say I should not sand my deck?
There are some arguments against sanding a deck:
- Thin wood: Over sanding can significantly reduce the thickness of deck boards, making them weaker. Deck boards are often around 19mm thick and each time you sand, the wood gets thinner and weaker.
- Uneven boards: Decks are not always level due to warping, cupping, or twisting, and excessive sanding to achieve a level surface can remove too much wood in some areas.
- Nails/Screws: You need to drive down nails below the surface, and this creates pits that may hold water and cause rot and rust.
- Pore closure: Sanding with too fine of grit can close the pores of the wood, preventing stain from absorbing properly.
- Time Consuming: Sanding is time consuming and it doesn’t always work well on the uneven surfaces of a deck.
- Damaging: Pressure treated wood can be damaged by pressure washing and sanding.
It’s crucial to assess your deck’s condition and determine if sanding is truly necessary or if a good cleaning with a stripper and/or brightener will suffice.
